SHIKOKU
Shikoku
(四国) is smallest of Japan's Big 4 islands, it
lies to the south of Honshu.
Shikoku remains a rural backwater with few
must-see attractions, but particularly the mountainous inner regions offer
some good hiking and a glimpse of the elusive Real
Japan.
Shikoku Regions
Shikoku literally means "four lands", and it indeed consists of four
prefectures, conveniently arranged around the compass points. Each
prefecture also has an old provincial name, still often found in place names
and listed in parenthesis below.
Ehime (Iyo) — to the west
Kagawa (Sanuki) — to the north
Kochi (Tosa) — to the south, home of the actress, Ryoko Hirosue, known
abroad for her turn alongside Jean Reno in the 2001 movie Wasabi.
Tokushima (Awa) — to the east
Shikoku Cities
Takamatsu — the largest city in Shikoku
Matsuyama — better known for neighbouring
Dogo Onsen
Tokushima — home of the Awa Odori festival in August
Uwajima — (barely) on the tourist map due to an interesting fertility shrine
and wrestling bulls
Other destinations
Cape Ashizuri — a scenic cape at the southernmost point of Shikoku
Dogo Onsen — Japan's oldest hot spring
Iya Valley — a remote but beautiful mountain valley
Kotohira — the site of the Kompira-san shrine
Mount Ishizuchi — the tallest peak in Shikoku
Understand
Shikoku is a primarily agricultural island, renowned for its citrus fruits.
Talk
Shikoku is far enough off the beaten track that some Japanese ability,
while not absolutely necessary, will come in handy. Some of Shikoku's
dialects, notably Tosa-ben spoken in Kochi, are famously incomprehensible to
outsiders.
Get in
By plane
Prefectural capitals Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi and Tokushima all have
small regional airports. Takamatsu fields a few flights a week to Seoul, but
for any other international destinations, you will have to connect via Tokyo
or Kansai.
By train
Shikoku is not connected to the Shinkansen network, but there are frequent
connections from Okayama on Honshu to Takamatsu and from there on throughout
the island.
By bus
If coming from Kansai or eastern parts of Japan, buses through Awaji Island
are the fastest way of getting to Shikoku.
Get around
By train
The JR train network connects the larger towns together fairly well, but
regular trains are slow and expresses are expensive. The main lines are:
JR Yosan Line (予讃線) on the west coast, from
Okayama to Takamatsu and Uwajima via
Matsuyama
JR Dosan Line (土讃線) across the center of the island, from Okayama and
Takamatsu to Kubokawa via the Oboke gorge (near Iya Valley) and Kochi
JR Kōtoku Line (高徳線) on the east coast, from Takamatsu to Tokushima
There are some other minor lines with infrequent trains. Some parts of the
JR network, notably the southern segment from Kubokawa to Sukumo, have been
split off to the private Tosa Kuroshio Railway company.
By bus
Buses fill in the gaps in the train network and are the only means of
transport in areas like Cape Ashizuri and the Iya Valley. Schedules are
sparse and prices are high.
On foot
Serious pilgrims may choose to complete the 88 Temple Circuit (see Do) on
foot.
Do
Shikoku is known for the 88 Temple Pilgrimage (八十八ヶ所巡り
hachijūhakkasho-meguri), a circuit around the entire island through 88
temples and across 1,647 kilometers, plus an optional 20 "unnumbered" (番外
bangai) temples. All the temples are said to have been founded by monk and
scholar Kūkai (空海), better known by his posthumous title Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師),
who among his many achievements is said to have created the kana syllabary,
brought the tantric teachings of Esoteric Buddhism from China, developed it
into the uniquely Japanese Shingon sect and founded Shingon's headquarters
on Mount Koya near Osaka.
While most modern-day pilgrims (an estimated 100,000 yearly) travel by bus,
a minority still set out the old-fashioned way on foot, a journey which
takes about 60 days to complete. Pilgrims, known as o-henro-san (お遍路さん) in
Japanese, can be spotted in the temples and roadsides of Shikoku clad in a
white jacket emblazoned with the characters Dōgyō Ninin (同行二人), meaning "two
traveling together" — the other being the spirit of Kobo Daishi. Most (but
not all) temples offer basic but affordable lodging for pilgrims.
It is traditional to prepare by visiting Mount Koya, but the route itself
starts at Ryōzenji, near Tokushima, and you also have to return here in
order to complete your pilgrimage.
(Article
based on
Wikitravel article
by Based on work by Wikitravel user(s) InterLangBot, Mnd, Jpatokal,
Historian and Nzpcmad and Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Article used under
Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0.) |